The customer is responsible for the return shipping charges except in cases where JBugs shipped the incorrect item. Refunds are issued to your original payment method.Refunds, exchanges, or store credits will be given for items returned within 90 days of receipt.We are not responsible for tracking returns shipped without an RMA.Returns, refunds, and store credits are usually processed within 5 days upon receiving the items back.Returns shipped to our administration office may be subject to a higher restocking fee.Once you receive a Return Authorization, all returns must be shipped back to our AZ address.Keep your tracking information for proof of delivery. Ship the items back to the JBugs return address listed on the RMA.Place a copy of your invoice or order confirmation inside the package.Do not ship your return back to us until you have an RMA. Failure to do so will result in a higher restocking/reboxing fee or outright refusal of the return if the part cannot be restocked in the same condition it arrived at you. Most manufacturer packaging boxes are not rated for shipping and can become damaged or destroyed as they are too thin to withstand forces applied during the shipping process. With the exception of parts that are shipped to you in the original manufacturer packaging (example - TMI door panels, floor pans, complete front beams, etc), please be sure to return the parts with an external box or protective packaging around the parts you are returning. Returns must be sent in a proper shipping box. Items with scour marks that show installation or attempted installation from nuts, bolts, screw-driver’s, washers, etc.Items damaged in return shipping due to improper packaging.Items missing parts or the original packaging material.These situations will lead to refused returns: Like-new Condition: JBugs may refuse a return when the returned item is not in like-new condition. It'd be good to have someone check my math.You can return most unused, never installed, like-new items for 90 days from the date of receipt. I'll work up some of my ideas and post'm. Ok, maybe it's a fancy funnel but there are some fluid dynamic considerations in the design. I designed the velocity stack that's on my bike and there is some science behind the design. Your document made reference to an amal carburetor and read through that documentation as well, guess what.a velocity stack #37. I love the styling of the motor and had to have one. Figured out the problem, and have never looked back. I would classify her as a basket case and got her cheap. I'm her 3rd owner, bought her with 18k miles on her. I can confirm that opening things up liberates a triumph carbureted bike. Stock was 1.40mm and I'm at 1.60mm now, the pilot is. One thing I now realize is that I need a thruxton needle. I've read the CVK manual for Harleys but not the triumph variant. If you're ever in southern california, look me up I'd like to meet you in person. I do ride her a lot and like tinkering with motors. I find myself pushing the hand grip trying to relax the cable.Īnyway, she's my favorite bike right now and gets a lot of my attention. I hate letting off the gas so the clutch will engage. Clutch is slipping in 2nd gear and need to add stiffer springs to help it engage. At the same time I was going to mill the head and increase the compression ratio. I'm wanting to pull the head off and rebuild it. But she's not losing compression and the valves aren't needing adjustment. She's got close to 60k miles on her and I was worried about the valve seats. All I'm trying to do is beat the guy next to me. Checking for brown plugs seems to be working, nothing white or black. I guess if you're increasing the flow rate, then adding a little more gas across the range is a good idea. I have changed the needle settings to help midrange. Thanks for your input, it's rare to find someone with your knowledge and for me having this type of conversation, I'm enjoying it.
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